Fantasy Architecture
Though there's a lot of controversy about the randomness or "hidden
order" of the city, it has a lot interesting architecture,
old and new. The Nakajima capsule building in the Ginza that
was to be a prototype for future housing, consisting of moveable
concrete cubes attached to steel superstructure. There were the
notorious capsule hotels, pencil-thin parking garages, underground
malls, but most striking was the Shibuya fantasy architecture.
Shibuya is the fashion district in the heart of Tokyo, home of
the famous Hachiko square. When I got off the subway, I was swept
up in an army of young people wearing the same fashionable uniform
-- dark blue or black clothes. Only the occasional fashion rebel
broke the sea dark colors. Schoolgirls were still wearing loose
socks, a practical idea for the chilly autumn weather. Women
wore long platform boots often with 6 inch heels that made then
tower over many of the men in their conservative blue or dark
grey business suits.
Behind them, Shibuya's architecture told the story of an emerging
Tokyo style -- ultra-modern, compact, cute and flamboyant. Wandering
away from the openness of Hachiko square, the winding streets
opened up one fantastic vista after another. Spiral staircases,
impossibly thin buildings, black glass, towers, spires, pinnacles
and minarets crowded the deep streets. An animated dragon leers
down from a store front, threatening passers by. Aircraft and
automobiles stick out of walls. The Disney Store was a sinister
black building that looked like Darth Vader's helmet. Many of
the buildings look like sets from science fiction movies.
Japan the Science Fiction Nation
Science fiction is an important aspect of modern Japan. If science
fiction can be defined as literature that describes the impact
of technology on mankind, Japan certain felt that impact more
than any other nation in recent history. When it opened to the
West, it embraced technology with an unparalleled eagerness.
The robotically enhanced human, Ultraman, and the robot cat Doremon
could be seen everywhere in toys, keychains, advertising and
television. The robot rivals the samurai as the Japanese national
hero.
Clearly admiration for the samurai survives in old Japan. Among
the modern commercial centers, Japanese history holds an important
place. The Imperial Palace with its enormous stone walls and
sweeping tiled roof buildings is a fortress of tradition. Behind
its huge gates are gardens and structures dating back hundreds
of years. While the palace itself is only open to the public
two days a year, the East Gardens offer time travel back the
a place purely Japanese.
Survivals of Old Japan
The contrast between the old and new Japan can be seen in the
difference between Tokyo two greatest history museums. The Tokyo
National Museum in beautiful Ueno Park has the nation's largest
collection of artifacts: armor, swords, ceramics, artwork, and
fabrics. All is elegantly displayed in glass cases in this 1930's
style traditional museum. On the other hand, the Edo Tokyo is
an ultra-modern multimedia experience. From its Pompidou Centre
style tubular escalators to its lifesize replicas, it makes visitors
feel they're walking the streets of old Edo. A state of the art
museum, the Edo Tokyo has mechanically animated Kabuki theatre
shows, video displays, virtual models of Tokyo and interactive
exhibits.
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